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Voltage & Amperage This information is presented as a
guideline for private use only and serves as discussion points for our
inspectors and/or clients. |
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EXTERIOR |
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Voltage This
picture shows standard 220+ Volts:
If there is only one 110-220 wire coming into the home (along with
the ground wire), this would indicate 110 Volts and is considered antiquated
and inadequate service for today’s modern homes and appliances. Voltage can be determined from the exterior of a
home. * Note: Each Voltage line is normally
110-120V. Two lines would be 220-240V. Voltage leaving the utility pole at the street is
rated 240V. This dissipates and will normally
be 220V as it enters the house. For our insurance inspection purposes, we indicate
the ‘minimum voltage rating’ it would enter the house. Amperage Amperage is normally shown on the Circuit Breaker
or Fuse box located inside the home. Amperage can be estimated from the exterior of the
home by the width of the ‘Connecting Pipe’ by using a gauge – see below. The larger the pipe – the higher the amperage. Discuss this with your manager. Main Amperages in a
home are:
Additional
Info The DISK located in
the Exterior Meter should be ‘spinning’.
This indicates that
electricity is flowing into the home. If this meter is not
spinning – it may indicate that the home is vacant or unoccupied. All Wires & Equipment
should be in good working order – no damage noted,
no frayed wires, etc. |
A Modern Home today has 220 Volts & at least
100 Amps! Modern Homes may have ‘underground wiring’ from the
street. Just note this in your report! |
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Main Amp Estimating Cards UPFRO
Inspectors should receive
a card similar to the right. The “Gauge” on this card can be used to accurately estimate the Main Amperage coming into a home. |
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INTERIOR |
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When Electricity comes into a home or building it needs to be protected
by a Circuit Breaker or Fuse System. If Electricity were allowed to
flow directly into the home, a surge/demand could cause damage to the home
(fire). As an analogy, think of electric current as ‘water flowing thru
pipes’. If ‘too much water’ were
forced thru the pipes (a surge) they could break. With electricity, this surge would cause
the wires located throughout the walls of a home to heat up (similar to
friction). This heat could result in
an electric fire. [Similarly, when too
many appliances are plugged into an extension cord or a multi-plug, they may
create an increase demand resulting in an overheated wire resulting in a
fire.] Circuit Breaker System This is the most modern type of protection today (see below). When the flow of electricity is too high,
the switches are tripped to the ‘Off’ position. Circuit Breakers can be switched back to
the ‘On’ position provided the cause of the surge has been corrected. [These switches work using a magnetic
current – the higher the flow of electricity, the increased magnetism –
tripping the switch to the off position.] Fuses [Fuse, Fusestats,
& Fusetrons] Somewhat older but still effective, these provide protection to a home
as well.
Inside a fuse is a small thin (zinc) wire that ‘breaks’ when too much
electric current passes thru it. These
will need to be replaced once ‘blown’.
Over time, electric equipment and machines grew. Often there would be a “start-up” surge
demanded by the equipment or machine.
The machine might run comfortably at 17 amps, but needed 22 amps to
start. A 20 Amp fuse would blow. Fusestats where
created to accept, on a time delay this surge before they would blow and shut
down the flow of electricity.
Often a homeowner would replace the 20 Amp Fuse or Fusestat
with a 25 Amp Fuse or Fusestate (and higher and
higher Amperages) – ever increasing the acceptable amperage and potential for
problems. Fusetrons where created to prevent
this. The sleeve size is altered for
each Fusetron.
In this way, you can only replace a blown 20 Amp Fusetron
with a 20 Amp Fusetron. Any other size will not fit into the sleeve
in the electric panel. Standard Sizes & Identifying Colors
How Can you tell a fuse from a fusestat
or a fusetron? Only by reading – never remove a fuse, fusestat
or fusetron! What Else Should You Look For? Look for blown fuses next to the panel or boxes of replacement
fuses. This would indicate that the homeowner has to replace these often – and
that a problem might exist. Pennies Okay, you have probably heard about this old trick – put a penny behind
a fuse and it won’t blow. That is because a penny is copper and conducts the flow of electricity
(hence bypassing the fuse, fusestat or fusetron). It might save you a few cents in fuses – but could cost you the house. If you see pennies laying
around the fuse-box – put it in your report! BUT
NEVER – EVER – EVER
TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE A FUSE-BOX!!!!! Other Type Breakers Cartridges Theses are often found in older homes.
These are primarily used for larger demands on the electric system
such as pool filters, air conditioners, etc and are normally housed in a
separate panel. These are ‘tube-like’
shaped and clipped (North & South Poles) into the accepting slots. Again – do not touch! Read and/or take photos in your
reporting. ASK the homeowner what it
is used for. Fuseable Pullouts These ‘snap-in/ pull-out devices’ are used the same as cartridges. You might see one in the exterior panel on
a home used for central air-conditioning. Additional Panels There may be more than one panel in a home – especially older
homes. Additional panels may have been
added as the electrical demands increased over time. Fifty years ago a home did not have; hair dryers, computers,
air-conditioners, microwave ovens, etc. etc. etc. We report on all panels –
indicating the main panel when known.
When in doubt – take a photo! Additional Protection Ground Fault Interrupters These are ‘outlets’ in or around the home that act as a circuit
breaker. These are commonly used in
areas where there is water (bathrooms, kitchens, pool areas, etc.). These are not normally included in our
standard rider – but you should be aware of these just the same. |
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Circuit
Breaker Box This is normally
located inside the home in the Utility Room, Garage, or a Closet, but maybe
located in other areas as well – ask the homeowners to show you it’s location. Photo shows a standard Circuit Breaker box without its cover. Covers should always be present and closed. The ‘Main Breaker Switch’ located at the top here servers to
shut off all electric to the home. The
smaller switches located below (10 shown to the left) control electric to the
various sections of a home. These are
often (but not always labeled, such as: Kitchen; Furnace; Living Room; Pool;
etc. Main
Amperage This is often
shown on the ‘Main Breaker Switch’ or written inside the panel door (not
shown here). If the Main
Amperage is not shown – you can still estimate as you would from the
exterior. And you may note “Not Shown”
in your report. NEVER TOUCH Any Electrical Component other
than to open and close the panel door. |
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Circuit
Breakers |
Fuse |
Fuseable Pullout |
Safety
Switch (Non-Fuseable) |
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Wiring – Types |
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Romex |
Romex NM NMC |
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BX |
BX Cable Armored Cable |
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Conduit |
Conduit |
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Definitions/Glossary (still under construction) |
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Amp (Ampere) |
A unit that measures the strength/rate of flow of electrical current. |
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Circuit Breaker |
The most common type of "over-current protection." A breaker trips when a circuit becomes overloaded or shorts out. |
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Fuses |
Removable devices that link a circuit at the fuse box. Fuse connections blow apart and break the circuit if an overload or short occurs. |
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GFCI or GFI (Ground Fault
Circuit Interrupter) |
A specific type of circuit protection (commonly required in kitchens & bathrooms) that helps safeguard against shocks. GFCI protection can come from an outlet or a breaker. |
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UF (Underground Feeder) cable |
Cable designed and rated for underground, outdoor use. Cable wires are molded into solid plastic. |
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Volt |
A unit that measures the amount of electrical pressure. |
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Ohm |
A unit that measures the resistance a conductor has to electricity. |
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Please contact
your UPFRO Representative or Manager for further explanations or details.
William
A. Haupt September 5, 2003